Climb: 8hrs (asc. 440m)
Descent of West ridge: 1hr
Return: 1hr20min
Total time: 12hrs50min (total asc. 1030m)
We left at 0520h and approached towards the East face of Pigeon Spire via Bugaboo glacier to climb a long classic line named Cooper-Kor. For a climb that is given 3 stars in the guidebook. It was good but not quite like the other three star routes we had done the previous days. What stood out on this climb was an intimidating traverse along a slab that was poorly protected. This made things spicy for both the leader but also the person seconding because of the potential to pendulum if there was a fall. Overall, the route wandered up left and right and followed nice weaknesses along the headwall. This made the climb lengthy. We had some route finding issues after the traverse. But we solved it without any problems. The tension aid sections we passed through added some complications and were a good learning experience. This was our last day climbing in the Bugaboos. The next morning we packed out all our gear to drive back to Banff and stay two days in town. It was great to see Erin again!
I didn't bring the camera along for this climb (shaved some weight off my pack).
Here are a few random photos taken elsewhere in the Bugaboos.
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| Alpine flowers reaching for the morning sun. |
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| Can you spot the climber walking by? Click on the photo to enlarge. |
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| Pigeon Spire on the left. The Howser Towers in the back. |
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| Our tent with Snowpatch Spire in the back. The col to the right. |
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| Sun setting behind Bugaboo Spire. |
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| Pat's monster load as we start the walk out. |
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| .... and my monster load. The legs and shoulders were happy when we made it back to the van. |
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