Photo of the moment

Photo of the moment

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Crescent Spire, McTech Arete (5.10-, 6 pitches)

Approach: 1h10min (Ascended 150m)
Climb: 5hrs
Rappels + Return: 1hr50min
Total: 8hrs

Pat and I wanted to get onto a longer climb and have a bigger day. But the recent snowfall that fell a few days ago left the longer routes on the Spires out of climbing condition. We weren’t disappointed today and had the chance to test our crack climbing. The Rockies doesn’t have much to offer when it comes to climbing cracks since the limestone formations don’t offer this type of climbing. The solid granite in the Bugaboos on the other hand form beautiful crack lines along the rock walls and these cracks offer an interesting way to get up. We left the Applebee camp at 0930h and walked up to Crescent Spire. The climbing was stellar and the route finding was straight forward up great crack and corner systems. It was the best climb of my life in terms of rock quality and fun factor. The crux for me was pulling past a small roof on the fourth pitch. The good protection all along the climb boosted confidence since all of it was in solid cracks on granite.

The climb goes up the middle of the photo.

Showing off the climbing gear.
Starting up the 2nd pitch.

Higher up on the 2nd pitch.

Pat leading the 5th pitch.

The fun cracks on that 5th pitch.
From a different angle.

Beautiful view on top. North-East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire to the left.

More views from on top of Crescent Spire.

Throwing the rope down for the start of the rappels.

Pat higher up on the last rappel down.

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