Photo of the moment

Photo of the moment

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Crescent Spire, Paddle Flake Direct (5.10, 6 pitches)

The climb: 5hrs30min

The approach to this climb was the same as for McTech Arete which we did two days ago and started a few meters to the left. Again, this climb was tons of fun! We were looking to “recover” from yesterday and had a later start (1000h). This climb followed sharp finger sized cracks to the left of a big dihedral. What made it fun were the sustained pitches on good quality rock. The fourth pitch caught me off-guard with its slightly overhanging section at the top. I was one move away from pulling it through but ended up falling onto a solid #1 Camalot and a fixed piton. A little change in my technique the second time around made it feel easier. Once back at camp we ate dinner and at 1930h and started to walk back down to the van to restock on food for more days in this amazing place. Since our first day we’ve had blue bird skies, day time temperatures in the 20’s and the weather forecast looks amazing!

The first pitch of Paddle Flake.

The squeeze chimney behind the "Paddle Flake".

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