Approach: 1h50min (Ascended 700m)
Climb: 5hrs15min (Asc. 300m)
Descent to camp: 1hr10min
Return to van: 55min
Total time: 9hrs (Total ascention: 1080m)
The drive up the logging roads this morning went well except for a short, rough and steep section. The overnight rain softened up the dirt road and made it more challenging. To get by we took out the Rubbermaid bins to lighten the load, which solved the issue. As we approached our intended destination in the Valhalla Provincial Park, we noticed that quite a few higher peaks received a layer of snow. This concerned us a little. We were starting to think that Mt. Gimli might not be in climbing condition for maybe a few days. At the parking lot we met up with a guy from. France named Florent who was in Canada for a few months working at a winery near Penticton, BC. He joined us for the hike up and also planned to spend the night bellow Mt. Gimli. We planned to go up and see what the conditions would be like with the snow. We had enough food to wait around for a few days if needed. We left the parking at 1500h and placed our temporary camp within a 10 minute walk bellow the South Ridge of Mt. Gimli. We seemed to be in good luck. Most of the snow seemed to have melted by the end of the day which means that we would probably climb tomorrow if the weather permits. Our camping position offered great views into the valley bellow. To top it all off the sunset was amazing! It was quite cold once the sun left the horizon so we didn’t waste time before retreating to our sleeping bags. Florent had the luxury of a tent while Pat and I lightened our load by only bringing our bivy sacs (a waterproof bag that goes over a sleeping bag and zips up completely if it rains). The stargazing overnight made the bivy sacs a good choice!
We woke up the next morning (Sept. 20th) to the sun warming our toes through the sleeping bags. The weather seemed to be cooperating. We started climbing around 1000h and were happy the ridge was on a sunny South facing aspect. The crux pitch was at the start in a corner/crack. It offered a good warm-up! The climb was an enjoyable eight pitches of steep cracks and grooves on a startling narrow line along the ridge. According to the author of the guidebook “It ranks with the best of its class anywhere in the world”. The most memorable part of the climb was a roof traverse on the seventh pitch which was quite exposed. On our way up we heard Florent cheer from bellow as he made his own way hiking along. We met up afterwards for the hike back down to the van.
 |
| On the drive up to Mt. Gimli. Notice the snow on the peaks in the back. |
 |
| View of Mt. Gimli from the parking. |
 |
| The approach once past treeline. |
 |
| A nice lookout near camp. |
 |
| A shot of Mt. Gimli silhouetted at dusk. I didn't even get out of my sleeping bag to take this photo. |
 |
| Pat lying down in his bivy. |
 |
| The view from the opposing side of camp. |
 |
| Pitch 6 along the exposed ridge. |
 |
| Final steps to the summit. |
 |
| View from the summit. Small "icebergs" in the lake bellow. |
 |
| A closer view of the "icebergs". |
 |
| The Gimli trio. Our new friend Florent in the middle. |
No comments:
Post a Comment