Sea of Vapors 165m V, WI5+ (Ice Climbing)



 

Views before crossing the big avalanche path.







Terminator on the left
 (not touching down),
The Replicant and
Sea of Vapors on the right.

                                                            

A few moves on rock at the

 start of the second pitch.

There were snowfall warnings in effect overnight but when Pat and I got up at 0430h there had only been about 5cm. The snow stability has been improving with the warmer temperatures which kept our confidence high for giving the climb a shot. At 0515h we parked the van at Bow Falls and biked up to the trail head. From there a 2hr walk constantly upwards brought us to the headwall. We were lucky to have been able to follow up previous tracks since the walk up would have been a tough one. There were a few good snow slopes to cross towards the top. The snow stability was important while approaching up with this year’s high snow pack. We geared up and left our packs beneath an overhanging rock band where it was well protected. We then ascended a fixed rope to get passed a 3m rock band. Soon after, we were at the base of a 40m step of WI3. We soloed up to the base of the first pitch of Sea of Vapors called “Post scriptum”. The climbing of this popular “hard” climb actually looked quite easy from bellow. Pat led the first pitch on good ice to a bolted belay on the left. I then led the second pitch across the rock section and then climbed up hooked out ice. Although it was thin to start off with and it took a little hunting around to find good screw placements. I reached a bomber V-thread station about 50m up. Pat then led the last pitch to the top where a V-thread was already placed. We were surprised to have found the ice quite easier than expected and actually felt a little disappointed. It was still a great climb and the temperature couldn’t have been better. Also the views were awesome with low valley clouds bellow us giving the climb an eerie bottomless feeling.

The descent offered plenty of bum sliding down which made it faster and fun.

 

Clouds rising up from

the valley bottom.