Windtower; North-East Face 5.10a

Left car at 0600h

Returned to car at 2015h

Started climbing at 0830h

Finished climbing at 1900h

Total pitches: 11 + 400m of 4^th and low 5^th class climbing

 Pat and I are back a week later for a second attempt. We left at the same time as last week but didn’t lose nearly as much time searching around for the start of the climb. Earlier this week Pat spoke with Cian, our climbing buddy, who did the climb last year. With the added information, we knew to look for two pitons that would mark the top of the first pitch. When we found them we were happy to be on track! We started upwards around 0830h. We negotiated some loose rock on the first two pitches but afterwards the climbing became very enjoyable. We agreed that the crux for both of us was the 10m off-width crack on the 7^th pitch.






 Even though it wasn’t rated the most difficult at 5.9 it was the most awkward technically. As we arrived at the last two technical pitches dark clouds started rolling above us from each side of the Windtower. When we heard lightning in the distance that’s when we really started to press on. Heading back down the climb wasn’t much of an option anymore since we were already quite high. Pat led and linked up the last two pitches. It was a nice long pitch of almost only layback moves. Unfortunately I didn’t get to enjoy it much since all I was concentrating on was to get to the top. The only thing on our mind was to head down and off the peak as fast as possible. Once past the 11^th and last pitch we simul-climbed about 400m of 4^th and low 5^th class climbing.

Once on the summit we quickly packed our climbing gear and started running down the long scree slope towards tree line. On the way down we could see the town of Canmore a few kilometres N-W covered by dark clouds and getting pounded by rain which was coming our way. We only stopped once bellow tree line for a quick drink of what was left in our water bottles and carried on to the van. We took a few minutes before leaving to watch the incoming dark clouds, lightning and the veil of rain that followed. Glad we were down in time!